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On my chieftain experiences...
* Sometimes they establish embassies. But they're so slow to it that it's cheaper for you to to establish the embassy
* Initating a WW3 (sign tons of MPPs, declare war on someone, and have all hell break loose with your allies signing alliances with your enemies, so you turn on them) leads to widescale espionage. I've had military plans stolen, my spy exposed, and production sabotages twice
* Even if you get caught doing espionage, they won't respond back unless you do something really dirty like what I did above - set a ww3 and everyone never got polite afterwards.
* They'll always plant spies. In one game I discovered spies from 5 civs (out of 6). Once when I was in anarchy I caught Elizabeth trying to plant a spy.
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